Pizzeria Ortica

General Information

Description

If this pizzeria were a recipe, the key ingredients would be one gutsy chef/owner (David Myers of Comme Ça and Sona), an executive chef with a repertoire of Bolognesi family recipes (Steve Samson) and a prime location in an untapped market (across the street from South Coast Plaza, in a region bereft of gourmet pizzerias.) The result is Pizzeria Ortica, a classy but welcoming spot serving lusty Italian fare with market-fresh local produce. Antipasti here are not just something to nosh before the main course, but artful dishes unto themselves. Seafood, cured meats, grains and vegetables are bathed in olive oil and herbs that enliven seemingly everyday fare such as the tuna, beans and onion antipasti. Homemade pasta is prepared with egg, in keeping with the traditional Northern Italian recipe. For those who like to combine dinner and dessert, the pear and pecorino cheese tortelli in brown butter is the quintessential sweet-savory fusion. The pizza dough at Ortica is treated with religious reverence: Enriched with an imported Italian starter, the dough ferments for two days before it is hand-stretched and woodfired into a chewy-crispy foundation for traditional and nouveau pizzas. Like the antipasti, sides and salads are more than the sum of the ingredients listed. The Pizzeria Ortica interpretation gives kale, broccoli and Brussels sprouts a vibrant new personality. Fine dining reigns across the street at Mastro’s Steakhouse, American favorites are served at Savannah Supper Club, Pinot Provence speaks French, and dozens more choices exist in and around South Coast Plaza, including the celebrated Charlie Palmer and Marche Moderne.

Tips: The menu descriptions fail to capture the depth of the dishes. The simplest ingredients have been marinated and seasoned to bring out deceptively rich flavors. The more people you bring, the more dishes you can sample. Just like in Italy, your party can share a number of antipasti, pizzas, pastas and/or entrees.

— Andrea Adleman