Delancey

The man behind Hollywood's resident gastropub, the Bowery, has gone further down the restaurant path. This newer endeavor has plenty of wine, fancy beers and a lot of cocktails, but there's bountiful food as well. The menu is sort of Italian by way of New York, with items like meatball Parmesan, pasta Bolognese and fried calamari. Things tend to get experimental (the crostini are inventive), but do not suit some palates. Which is fine—there's plenty of space at the bar for wine and a cannoli.