Hunan Seafood

General Information

Description

Although Hunan province is situated far inland, it doesn't necessarily follow that the restaurant's name is an oxymoron. The province surrounds the vast Dong Ting Lake, and Yangtze River tributaries meander the landscape.

These provide ideal habitats for a menagerie of freshwater delicacies: sweet fish, plump shrimp, meaty frogs and turtle, all of which are on the menu here.

But the pièce de résistance at this modern chrome- and glass-decorated spot is the steamed fish head casserole with special hot pepper. Whether or not fish eyeballs and gelatinous tidbits from the skull hold any appeal, there's a generous amount of delicate meat clinging to the head's base to enjoy. Dunk it into the accompanying pool of crushed pickled chiles, garlic chunks and savory soy.

Despite the name, Hunan Seafood divides its menu equally between fish, poultry, meat and vegetable dishes.

The house specialty -- Hunan ham, smoked duck and fish -- combines all three proteins. Braised for hours, the brick-red meats, steeped in irresistible, mildly spicy juices, come to the table compressed into the shape of a bowler hat. Even the bones are edible in this wondrous dish.

Hot pots are one of the restaurant's strong suits, and many of its tables are equipped with induction-type burners so there's no smelly Sterno aroma to mingle with your food.

In a previous incarnation as Hunan's Restaurant in Alhambra, the owners won legions of followers among local Hunan food buffs for their version of Chairman Mao's red-cooked (braised) pork with garlic and bamboo shoots -- said to be his favorite dish. Now on the menu here, its appeal is undeniable. The pork's buttery, tender flesh has absorbed the flavors of nearly caramelized sweet garlic melting into a rice wine-kissed sauce.

--Linda Burum, Special to The Times, 4/15/09